Joy Tienzo on Rhythm of the Home

Today, pop over to the fantastic Rhythm of the Home, which has a bit on me and my Italian Cornmeal Cake! I was so happy to be featured on this lovely blog and seasonal magazine, and to share one of my favorite simple recipes. Happy reading!

Sites We Love

I use we in the individual sense, because when you're blogging about other bloggers, it's only proper to adopt the ridiculous lingo of Perez Hilton!

Here are some of my (ahem, our) favorite sites lately. I'll preface it by saying that although I only refer to vegan food and links on my blog, these are not all vegan. (And to be honest, when it comes to food inspiration, I'm much more likely to hit up the latest Top Chef than check out The PPK. But that's another post.)

Here you go:

Seitan is my Motor
I couldn't help but notice the author's uncommonly pretty photos while she was a tester for my cookbook, and was so happy to discover this blog. Based in Germany, Mihl is well-versed in a variety of cuisines, and consistently features interesting, thoughtful food. And she posts recipes every time. There are plenty of other, more hyped vegan food blogs, but for content and sheer beauty, this one deserves a place among the best.

Ecorazzi
When you want to indulge your inner smut-hound, Ecorazzi is the place to visit. This site dishes up the latest in green gossip, from Stella McCartney's vegan shoe collection to which celebs are stripping for PETA (the list grows weekly, doesn't it?). Weed through a bit of "happy meat" propaganda, and you'll be rewarded with a guilty pleasure that's not so guilty after all.

Martha Stewart
Yes, I know. I know. But the culinary world owes a huge debt of gratitude to Ms. Stewart--she's built an empire based on loving where you live, which I can't help but appreciate. And it's an empire that doesn't stop growing; I recently looked at her new line of KB homes and was amazed at the functionality (see-through pantry doors! perfect kitchen layouts!). Her site features thousands of recipes and great menu ideas, which are inspirational, if not vegan. One of her recent projects, Whole Living, features a heavy sprinkling of vegan recipes and lifestyle articles.

G living
The self-described "darker, cooler side of green" is exactly that, a smart, crisp site devoted to articles on living green, from architecture to food to fashion. I love the focus on fresh (read: raw) vegan foods and its casual vibe. Among the contributors? Sarma Melngalis of Pure Food and Wine in NYC, David Anderson of Madeleine Bistro, and Dhrumil Purohit of We Like It Raw.

David Lebovitz
He's not vegan, or even vegetarian, but he was pastry cook at the fantastic Chez Panisse and is a dessert genius. He lives in Paris. He gives chocolate tours. His recipes always inspire. And he shares my love of saving jars, which gives him just enough quirk to make him nearly perfect.

30 Bananas a Day
This large forum and collection of articles will kick your ass into the low fat, raw vegan lifestyle. With hilariously snarky-but-useful comments from its organizers (Aussies Durian Rider and Freelee), you'll find yourself eating massive quantities of fruit (literally, 30 bananas a day), and never fearing carbs again. For the science behind the amazing athletic gains and physical performance, check out the work of Dr. Doug Graham.

That's my lately-list. Of course, these are only a few! Where do you love to visit?

Banana Caramel Pecan Ice Cream

I'm not sure where the idea of whipped banana "ice cream" originated, but I first heard about it at Alissa Cohen's site when I was new to raw foods. Good instructions for it are everywhere. And it's no wonder: made simply with bananas (and sometimes a bit of liquid to blend), it has the consistency of soft serve, and requires only a food processor to make.

But there’s always something more to be done with it. My version adds pecans, and is a bit salty, like classic butter pecan ice cream. Dates, with their dark chewy bite, add the perfect caramel chewiness and round out the flavors. Make it on a hot summer day, when you're too impatient to wait for a churning ice cream machine, and the neighborhood kids are antsy for something cold.


Banana Caramel Pecan Ice Cream
about 1 pint

4 medium frozen bananas, broken into chunks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract, or seeds scraped from 1” of vanilla bean
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ cup raw pecans
2 large Medjool dates, halved and pitted

In a food processor, combine bananas, vanilla extract or vanilla bean, and sea salt. The bananas will get pulverized into tiny bits, then the bottom layer will begin to come together as a big soft mass. Scrape down the sides, and continue processing until the mixture is smooth and free of lumps; it should appear whipped and airy. This may take a long time, so be patient with it.


Sprinkle pecans and dates evenly over the top, and pulse until just mixed in. Serve immediately. The ice cream does not keep well, and is best eaten sitting on a porch with neighbors, as above.

You can always add more to the basic mixture of bananas + a pinch of sea salt. Blend in powders and extracts with the bananas, and add chunky bits and fruit at the end:
Fresh pineapple chunks, cherries, and a few drops almond extract
Raw cacao nibs, flaked coconut, and brazil nuts
Quartered figs, raw pistachios, and a drizzle of orange flower water
Cacao or cocoa powder, with a swirl of peanut or almond butter

Or, mound the basic banana cream into an Almond Shortbread Crust and top with strawberries for ice cream pie...the possibilities are endless!

Orange Rosemary Salad

Autumn or winter would be the perfect season for this salad, when oranges are abundant and rosemary leaves are still fresh on the bush. But I cannot stop eating it in summer; for nearly a week, I've had it twice every day! This makes it very easy to get in the pound of greens I've been aiming for, and it's so satiating and tasty, you'll be tempted to make it a daily habit too.

In this salad, the primary flavor comes not from dressing or vegetables, but from a savory crumble that's tossed over the top. The crumble is excellent in salads, but don't stop there: scatter it over cooked or marinated vegetables, sprinkle it over soup, or use it to adorn dipping sauces and dinner plates.


Orange Rosemary Salad
1 very large or 4 luncheon servings
I use half an avocado and one orange because it's usually just me eating it. If you're making it to serve many, use a whole avocado (or two) and two oranges, so everyone gets some. Unfortunately you can't see the oranges here, as they sank to the bottom, and I wasn't fussy enough to slice more over the top.
The dulse really is optional, so feel free to omit it. But it's nice here, and a simple way to incorporate sea vegetables into your diet without a strong oceanic taste.

For the Rosemary Crumble:
1/4 cup raw pine nuts
1/4 cup raw almonds
1/4 cup raw pumpkin seeds or pistachios
1 heaping tablespoon nutritional yeast
8" length of fresh rosemary, with the tough central stem removed
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon dulse (optional)

For the Salad:
juice of half a lime
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 orange
10-12 cups fresh young lettuces or spring mix
coarse sea salt (optional)
half an avocado, pitted

Make the Rosemary Crumble: In a food processor, combine all ingredients until well mixed and crumbly. Get the bits fairly small, but not to the point where the mixture becomes oily. Set aside.

Make the Salad: In a large bowl, stir together lime juice and olive oil. Cut the ends off of the orange, and remove skin and pith with a sharp knife. Slice in between the membranes to release the segments into the bowl; these are supremes. Repeat through the whole orange. Squeeze the remaining membranes over the bowl to release leftover juice, then discard. Add greens, and toss. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt, and toss again. Don't agitate it too much at this point; the sea salt should just begin to dissolve, adding a slight brininess, but should still be in large, crunchy flakes.

Slice the avocado thinly, scoop out the slices with a large spoon, and fan over the salad. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup-1/3 cup of the crumble. Shake additional coarse sea salt over everything, if desired, and serve immediately.

The extra crumble can be covered and refrigerated for up to a week.

Fior di Coco Gelato

Fior di Coco Gelato, on Cardamom Crepes with Pistachios and Orange Blossom "Honey" from Cook, Eat, Thrive

Walk into a gelateria, and you'll find rows of frozen metal containers, mounded high with gelati and sorbeti, and topped with fruit or bits that indicate their flavors. It makes those cardboard tubs in regular ice cream shops seem awfully pedestrian by comparison, and it's easy to see why so many of us are growing to appreciate gelato. I suspect several million Italians would agree!

Gelato is infinitely better than ice cream, I think. It's creamy texture feels more decadent in the mouth, and less air in the mixture means a denser, more substantial dessert. Despite the density and intense flavor, gelati generally contain less fat and sugar than their American counterparts. For this reason, they don't store well and are best eaten within a few days of making. The conventional stuff is made with milk and eggs, but this version gets a rich texture and mouthfeel from coconut milk and the addition of agar.

Fior di Latte is literally "flower of milk," and serves as the base for all other gelato flavors. My Fior di Coco is a simple coconut cream to which you can add pureed figs, espresso, chocolate shavings, or one of the variations below. These are flavors you'd find at a gelateria, along with favorites like bacio (chocolate hazelnut), amarena (sour cherry) and cannella (cinnamon).

Fior di Coco Gelato
1 quart
Fold two parts gelato together with one part Whipped Coconut Cream, and you'll have Semifreddo, a delicious semi-frozen mousse. When I worked as a pastry cook, my Peach Melba Semifreddo--peach semifreddo marbled with raspberry puree and topped with lemon curd--was always quick to sell out!

2 14-ounce cans coconut milk (full fat)
1 tablespoon agar flakes
1/2 cup water
2/3 cup evaporated cane juice or agave nectar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract, or seeds scraped from 1" of vanilla bean
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon coconut oil (optional, for a creamier gelato)

Simmer the agar flakes in the 1/2 cup water over low heat until nearly dissolved. Set aside.

In a blender, combine coconut milk, sweetener, vanilla, and sea salt. Pass the reserved agar mixture through a sieve into the blender, and blend again (if you have a high-speed blender, you can skip the straining). With the blender running, add coconut oil, if using. Refrigerate until completely cold, about 1 hour.

Freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's directions.


Gelato di Menta, with bittersweet chocolate shavings and fresh spearmint

Menta Gelato
1 quart
Mint doesn't sound quintessentially Italian, but it's actually used in many regions of Italy, from Tuscany's panzanella, to Calabria's eggplant salads, to Emilia-Romanga's melons, where it's drizzled with aged balsamico. Here, it adds a fresh, cooling bite that's particularly welcome in summer's heat. Add 1/2 teaspoon lemon or orange zest for a more complex flavor.

Omit coconut oil. To the basic gelato recipe, after the initial blending, add 1 cup loosely packed mint leaves, and continue blending until only small pieces remain and the mixture is a very pale green. You want to pulverize it, but not blend completely smooth. Strain through a fine strainer, discarding solids (I strain it directly into the ice cream maker). For gelato with no green bits, strain through a chinois or several layers of cheesecloth. Chill as directed, and freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's directions.


Gelato di Burro di Arachidi, with peanuts and chocolate chips

Burro di Arachidi Gelato
1 quart
Peanut butter is very American, and difficult to find in Italy, but follows the traditional use of nut pastes and purees in gelato. Burro di arachidi is literally "butter of peanuts," but you can use any nut butter for this gelato. Hazelnut, cashew, or pistachio would be especially delicious.

Omit coconut oil. To the basic gelato recipe, after the initial blending, add 1/4 cup smooth natural peanut butter. Continue blending until completely smooth. Chill as directed, and freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's directions.

There's an amazing array of flavors to explore when making gelato! I can't wait to whisk together a batch of liquirizia (licorice) or zuppa inglese, flavored with bits of Almond Shortbread and a drizzle of sherry...

What kind do you want to try?

Becoming a Cheesemaker

Fresh Chévre over summer squash and greens

In college, a friend had me over to his small apartment for dinner. It was hot, and he announced that we'd be starting with a "light summer appetizer" of bruschetta with ricotta and peaches. "I usually make my own cheese, but..." he trailed off apologetically. But that was all I needed to hear. I was smitten.

That man later confessed, with some trepidation, that he had never, in fact, made his own cheese. And I'm sure it struck me as a terrible lie at the time. But he's since overseen every pancake flipped in our home--a number in the thousands now--and also fathered [almost] two of my children, the combination of which I think atones for the indiscretion.

Get Cultured

Not many people make their own cheese using an actual fermentation process, but it's absolutely worth trying. Here are some reasons why:

The fermentation process adds good things. Probiotics. Beneficial bacteria. They're all in here. Cultured foods are rich in healthy micro-organisms and lactic acid, which help maintain the balance of bacteria in the intestines. And a proper balance of intestinal flora means more effective synthesis of things like B12 and Vitamin K2, both particularly important in vegan diets.

Cultured nuts, seeds, and beans are predigested for optimal nutrition. The culturing process breaks down complex proteins in nuts and seeds, making them simpler to digest and absorb. If you have stomach trouble with a particular nut or seed, try the cultured version. As with soy products, the fermentation process often makes them easier to digest (think tempeh or miso), and the cultures make for easier assimilation of nutrients. Soaking is also a helpful component, as it removes some of the enzyme inhibitors in raw nuts, which can contribute to digestive issues.

This cheese is versatile. Got a cheese recipe that calls for raw cashews? Try fermenting them into cheese first. Making sunflower pate? Add the tang of beneficial cultures. Once fermented, these nuts and seeds can be used in equal amounts in any recipe that calls for them (just add after the soaking phase). Try it in Chévre, Baked Macaroni, raw Cashew Nacho Sauce or even Cheesecake.

It makes you a culinary badass. Omnivores and vegetarians eat cheese all the time, but do they make it? Hell no! But you do. Because you are a cheesemaker. Now get out there and grab some nuts!
[Insert agressive athletic style ass-slapping, and a hearty cry of whatever it is Marines say here.]

Culturing basics

When working with a starter, it's important to choose a product with live cultures. Unpasteurized miso works well, as do vegan yogurts, kombucha, or the liquid from fermented foods like kimchi or sauerkraut. Miso, kimchi, and saurkraut can impart strong salty flavors, so be mindful of this when seasoning the finished cheese. For this batch, I used coconut water kefir from Inner Eco, an excellent vegan product teeming with good bacteria. Whatever you choose, keep in mind that you want to use less of a very concentrated starter (miso), and more of a less concentrated one (kombucha or kefir).

A quick note about safety

All the precautions that apply to consuming raw, unpasteurized cheeses also apply here. While it's unlikely you'll encounter contamination by listeria or salmonella, it's still possible. If your immune system is compromised or you're pregnant, you might want to use the finished cheese in a cooked sauce, like the Cayenne Crumb Baked Macaroni mentioned above.

First, be sure all your utensils and gadgets are very clean; the cheese base is an ideal environment for growing bacteria--good and bad--and you want to prevent the latter. Your nuts and seeds should be relatively bacteria-free, but if you have any concerns about this, rinsing them in a mixture of pure water and hydrogen peroxide will eliminate the bad stuff.

While fermenting, try to keep the temperature as consistent as possible, which will keep your good cultures growing at a rapid rate, with no room for the other stuff. Also, don't allow the cheese to ferment beyond 10 or 12 hours, as this can encourage spoilage and ruin the batch. These tips should ensure you have no potential issues with your cheese, but if you feel like the finished product is off somehow (bad off, not good, cultured off), err on the side of caution and toss it.

A jar of fermenting nuts and seeds, in ghostly outline

Nut and Seed Cheese
About 1 cup
The cheese pictured here is made from a combination of cashews and pumpkin seeds, but you can use whatever varieties you prefer.

1 cup raw nuts, seeds, or a combination
1-3 tablespoons live cultures (see above)
4-6 cups fresh water

The best vessel for making seed and nut cheeses is a large, wide-mouthed jar, like those used for sprouting, which have a screen covering the lid (pictured above). If you don't have a screened lid, simply cover a large jar with cheesecloth or a clean kitchen towel, and secure with a rubber band.

In the large jar, soak nuts and/or seeds with enough water to cover for 6 hours or overnight. Drain, rinse, and drain again. Wash jar well with hot water, and set aside to dry.

In a blender or food processor, combine nuts/seeds, cultures, and just enough water to cover. Process until well mixed, but not smooth. The finished texture should appear mushy, like small-curd cottage cheese. Return mixture to jar, covering the top with the screen or cheesecloth, and place in a warm spot. Inside a dehydrator or next to a heating vent is ideal. You can also place the jar in a bowl of warm water, then loosely cover it with a towel (don't allow it to get wet), switching out the water as it cools.

The temperature should be between 85 and 95 F at all times. Too cool, the cultures won't activate quickly enough. Too warm, the beneficial bacteria will be killed.

I've found that the easiest timing for me is to soak nuts/seeds overnight, then ferment them through the next day. While fermenting, I keep the jar in a bowl of water, placed in the oven, where I can easily refresh the warm water as needed, in between other household stuff.

It's going to be tempting to poke at and examine your cheese, but let it sit undisturbed for 6-12 hours. The bacteria in the culture will begin to work, consuming the sugars and fermenting everything into cheese. The mixture may darken, separate, or bubble, and this is all okay.

Pressed cheese "curds" with the whey drained away

Once the fermentation has occurred, transfer to a clean kitchen towel or several layers of cheesecloth, and gently squeeze to remove excess liquid. The remaining cheese is ready to be used in recipes, or blended smooth into a dip.

The cheese should keep for up to a week in the refrigerator. Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly against the surface to prevent further oxidation and darkening.

Congratulations! You're a cheesemaker!

The finished product, blended smooth

Eating for Pregnancy

Clockwise from top left: organic tamari with wasabi, pickled ginger, spinach, almond-miso spread, oyster mushrooms, kimchi, carrots, ume plum, and cucumber, ready to be wrapped in sheets of nori

So here's the post where I confess my loyalty to raw foods, and apologize to anyone who wants to see only baked goods and seitan dishes. It's true. Before I ever protested fur or groaned at the protein question, I was a raw foodist.

Yes, I detoxed. I had a perpetually full dehydrator. I attended events known as rawlucks.

My food philosophy is to eat what makes you feel really alive, as long as it's vegan. For me, that's a diet composed primarily of fresh fruits, vegetables, raw nuts and seeds, with bits of cooked stuff, too. I eat whatever I want to eat, which usually means green smoothies, salads, and lots of fruit. Food should nourish the whole person, so there's room for all of it: cupcakes and chia puddings, dosas and raw crackers, piping hot stews and raw gazpachos. But these days, I've leaned very heavily toward eating fresh, uncooked foods. And during pregnancy, I'm committed to providing the best, least-processed nutrition for this little one.

So if you're rolling your eyes right now, give me a moment, and let me convince you to stick around for the next five months. Because even if you have no interest in raw food, good food is universal. I'll always feature plenty of that, whether it's homemade raw vegan cheese, or the smoothest, most decadent gelato (both of which I'll be posting this week!).

Here's what I've been eating.


Tropical Fruit Consomme, from Cook, Eat, Thrive

Fresh, watery fruits. It's wonderful to wake up to a whole papaya spritzed with lime, or to slice into a giant watermelon on warm afternoons. I get lots of nutrition from whole fruits, and when I'm not filling up on denser bananas or dates, I'm eating plenty of hydrating mangoes, grapes, peaches, and melons.



I've also wanted lots of fermented foods lately, and I find myself thinking about their sour tang throughout the day. My favorites are kimchi (look for brands that don't contain bonito or shrimp paste), coconut water kefir, and kombucha. I recently tried some raw kimchi from Rejuvenative Foods (above), which is a splurge at around $10 per jar. It's different from traditional kimchi, using regular cabbage instead of Napa or bok choy, but its gingery bite is certainly worth trying. Considering the amount of fermented foods I eat, I'm going to invest in a fermenting crock pot, so I can make fresh kimchi, sauerkraut, and fermented vegetables at home.
Caution should be exercised with these foods during pregnancy, but if you've been consuming them regularly prior to conception (I have), there shouldn't be any ill side effects.

As in this recent post, I've been enjoying plenty of sea vegetables. Nori is one of my favorites, and a perfect crunchy snack when I want something salty. I also use it to wrap a variety of fillings, burrito or hand roll style. I include wakame in my miso soup, and often sprinkle dulse over a platter of crisp vegetables. Seaweeds are rich in minerals and trace elements, and assist in balancing digestive and endocrine systems. They also prevent tissue damage caused by toxins and radiation by reducing absorption, so consider increasing your intake if you're exposed to x-rays, chemotherapy, or heavy metals.

I love cucumbers, and try to eat at least one every day. These tasty non-sweet fruits are the ideal pregnancy food, providing excellent hydration and building skin and connective tissues with their high silica content. They're best, I think, soaked liberally in fresh lemon juice and sea salt (although I suspect the idea makes most people pucker and cringe!).

This salad combines some of my favorites: cucumbers and sea vegetables.

Sea Cucumber Salad, with red peppers and carrots added, topped with black sesame

Sea Cucumber Salad
4 servings
Seaweed and crisp cucumber combine in this clean, bracing salad. Serve small quantities as a starter for an Asian meal, or serve it over carrot or zucchini noodles with an almond butter sauce.

2 cucumbers, peeled, halved, and seeds removed
1 tablespoon Arame
¼ medium red onion
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
½ teaspoon sesame oil (not toasted)
½ teaspoon sea salt

Soak seaweed in fresh water for 5 minutes to hydrate. Drain, and remove to a medium bowl.

Slice cucumbers into ¼” half-moons, and add to bowl. Slice red onion into half-moons, as thin as possible, and add to bowl. Sprinkle with vinegar, oil, and sea salt, toss to combine. Serve immediately.



Enormous fresh salads. When I have a salad, I really have a salad. I use a huge bowl, and start with 8-10 cups of greens. Then I toss with a bit of dressing, and allow it to wilt slightly while cutting up other additions. Salads are best served crisp, but when you're aiming for large amounts (I try to get 1/2-1 pound of greens every day), letting the dressing soften everything makes it easier to eat lots. This one is spinach, hazelnuts, pears, and golden raisins, tossed in Agave Mustard Poppyseed Dressing (which is Maple Mustard Poppyseed Dressing here, made so by substituting flavorful grade B maple syrup for the usual agave).

Just writing about salads makes me want another one. Off to find some good leafy greens...